Merlot Masquerade

Any idea where I’m going with this? Yes, red wine, but you don’t get any points for that. Need a clue? How about “phylloxera”? No, it’s not a dough. Phylloxera is a microscopic aphid, that lives on and eats the roots of grapes. Give up?

We are going to the southern hemisphere, specifically Chile, to learn about a “left for dead” grape called Carménère. A little history and science are in order to set the stage for our wine.

Prior to the 1860s, Carménère (“kar-men-nair” will do) was a blending grape in Bordeaux, France, playing a supporting role to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Around that time, phylloxera from North America got introduced to the European continent. North American vineyards had developed a resistance to the insect, but European vines were very susceptible. The infestation spread rapidly, and by the late 1880s, somewhere between 70% and 90% of all European vineyards were destroyed.

Before the infestation, some Chilean wine pioneers traveled to France and brought back vine cuttings they believed were Merlot. Little did they know these vines were actually Carménère! Look at the leaves of the two grapes. You can see how they might have made this mistake:

Image courtesy of Wine Folly

It’s not just chance that Carménère and Merlot look alike. They have a common parent, Cabernet Franc, which also happens to be a parent of Cabernet Sauvignon!

The Chilean Merlot Masquerade continued for over a hundred years, until 1994 when a French grape botanist using DNA techniques discovered that roughly half of Chile’s Merlot vines were actually the long lost Carménère grape from Bordeaux. After France’s phylloxera plague, virtually all their Carménère vines were replanted to the easier growing Merlot, leaving Carménère almost extinct.

Chile capitalized on this “re-birth” and over the next 20 years turned Carménère into their flagship grape. Not the most widely planted, but for a while almost singularly Chilean. Their success has resulted in the grape now growing in places like China and Italy!

Enough! What are we drinking?

Our wine: Casa Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre Carménère 2019. This wine retails for anywhere between $20 and $25. The importer is Winebow Inc in NY. They represent many fine brands.

I have to admit, I didn’t find this wine right away. Took me a couple of stops (for you locals, I got it at Rozi’s), but I’m glad I didn’t give up, as this producer is one of the great names you need to know in South America.

Lapostolle was founded in 1994 by Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle. If that middle name looks familiar, there’s a reason. Alexandra’s family developed the famous orange flavored cognac liqueur Grand Marnier.

Her French roots in Sancerre led her to search for a worthy red wine to put their heritage and knowledge behind. Carménère’s Bordeaux heritage drew her to Chile, and now Lapostolle is one of Chile’s marquee names. Their motto: “French in essence, Chilean by birth”. Today, they own over 900 acres across three principal vineyards in Chile.

You know I don’t often talk about wine scores & ratings, but I can’t help noting that their premier wine, a blend called Clos Apalta, received a rare 100 points from renowned wine critic James Suckling in 2014, 2015 and 2017. In 2005, the Clos Apalta was Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year. Yeah, I think they’ve got this figured out.

Lapostolle’s Clos Apalta winery

So wait, we’ve gotten this far and no map?? Fear not, I haven’t forgotten…

Once again, honors to Madeline Puckette and Wine Folly

Our wine comes from the southern end of Chile’s Central Wine Region, the Colchagua Valley, specifically, that little area in orange north of Santa Cruz. You can see “Apalta” on the label below the word Carménère.

Tasting:

This was fun, and done over two days. When you first see Carménère in the glass, you are struck by its deep ruby color, turning magenta on the rim. On the nose, your first impression is red and dark fruits, but then you start to pick up those classic Carménère herbal/vegetal notes, maybe like stewed tomatoes (but not overly so…don’t panic). Following that, I got a little cigar and maybe some dried cranberry. The wine is all over the place!

On the palate, you definitely get dark, tart fruits up front. I also picked up another classic Carnénère note: peppercorn. The mid-palate (sorry to get a little wine geeky) has a nice Bordeaux-like earthiness. The tannins are sharp and focused, which helps drive a long finish. This wine stays with you.

Carménère bottlings can sometimes contain as much as 15% of another varietal. Earlier vintages from Lapostolle have used a little Cabernet Sauvignon, and given the surprisingly firm tannins, that may be the case here. I don’t have details on the 2019 harvest, but historically Lapostolle’s Cuvee Alexandre has fermented in both oak and stainless, and then aged for a year in oak, mostly used barrels. This is a young wine, which could benefit from a little more time in the bottle.

Food:

This is one of those food wines for sure. It calls out for meat! I had it over two nights: the first with pork chops and the second with a dry-aged NY strip. The peppercorn flavor turned out to be a great match with the steak, as did the higher tannins. Lamb would be good too, particularly with a salsa verde, or maybe a lamb curry. Add roasted vegetables (make sure to include peppers) and you’ve got a winner. You might even consider Mexican food!

One More Suggestion:

If Clos Apalta is beyond reach, but you want to experience Carménère at its best, you should really consider this Chilean standard:

Purple Angel from Vina Montes

No, I don’t own this winery. Wish I did. The owner is considered one of Chile’s true wine pioneers. His name is Aurelio Montes (I should visit and tell him I’m a distant cousin). They make excellent wines at many price points, from everyday to more special, like the Purple Angel. I have had it several times, and understand why it has a cult following.

The Bottom Line:

Carménère is one of those wines you just need to try. In fact, while you’re at it, pick up some other reds from South America. Chile and their neighbor to the east are making some of their best wines yet and many are great values.

Even if Carménère does not become your go-to red, at least you can say you’ve been to the masquerade ball…

Until next time,

Cheers!