Wine Stories
Day 2 of my whirlwind visit to Lake Garda, Italy. If for some reason you missed Day 1, please read my post here first. The plan for the day was simple: 3 winery visits to experience the region up close and personal.
After another delicious breakfast at Hotel Caesius (the meats & cheeses sure beat my oatmeal back home), we boarded the bus and set out. I kept thinking: “how are they going to top that sailboat”?
Back to the map to show you were we were headed. First stop - Cantina Ricchi
Ricchi is directly below Peschiera at the southern end of the lake. In that green region, about level with Custoza.
Our two day program was called “Garda Wine Stories”. The first two visits on this Day 2 provided not just wine stories, but Family Stories. And you know how much I like learning about the families behind the wines…
Cantina Ricchi was founded in 1930 by Enrico Stefanoni. The morainic hills were not considered suitable for vines, but his vision and commitment resulted in a thriving property now in the care of its fourth and fifth generations.
Ricchi produces a variety of wines, some using lesser-known (to us!) regional varietals such as Turbiana, a cousin of Verdicchio. What surprised me was their extensive use of grapes we all know, such as Chardonnay and Merlot.
After our tour, we had the opportunity to sample a beautiful Chardonnay in their cellars. Known as “Meridiano”, this is a unique, local expression of Chardonnay. As is done more extensively with red grapes in the nearby region of Valpolicella, after harvesting Ricchi lets the grapes dry out for about a week before vinification begins. This produces a lush quality to the wine, yet all was perfectly in balance.
Reminded me again I need to keep an open mind to Chardonnay!
Then it was back on the bus, headed to the western shores of Lake Garda. Next stop: Pratello. I was not prepared for the beauty, diversity, history and hospitality that awaited us. If you look the map above, we were near the border of the two yellow/gold colored regions on the west shore of the lake:
How beautiful is this?
Pratello has been owned and operated by the Bertola family since the 1800s. The properties are extensive, roughly 300 acres, two-thirds of which are under vine. There is a total commitment to bio-diversity, with lots of animals roaming the property. In addition to grapes, the Bertolas grow olives for their own olive oil, vegetables for their restaurant (more in a moment) and lavender which is harvested and processed.
We walked down the path you see above and were greeted by 5th generation Naike Bertola. In many respects she is the face of Pratello, and we quickly realized why: Naike is very passionate about the land and what she and her family are creating.
Delicious snacks and sparkling wine to accompany the view! That’s Naike..
Their land even contains a small 1,100 year-old church, which is open to the public! The vineyards are spread out, and this is what they use to get around!
They wouldn’t let us drive…
We then traveled to the main entrance of the property. This is where the winery is located, as well as a restaurant and villa with approximately 20 guest suites.
Benvenuti !
We were treated to a fabulous lunch accompanied by a range of Pratello wines. The trout we had was caught in the northern end of Lake Garda the day before. Notice I couldn’t keep from having a bite before taking the picture! Hard to believe this was only lunch…
Suffice to say the Bertola family makes great wine, both white and red. But they have one offering that deserves special mention. Naike and her brother have created a line of Rosés called “Opera”. They make 4 versions from an 18 acre site, using indigenous grapes, most notably Gropello. We were served two of them, named Rocco and Chloe. Both were outstanding! Rocco was unique in that they don’t ferment in traditional stainless: Rocco is fermented in oak, imparting an intense, spicy character.
Sadly, we had to move on, but our visit to Pratello was memorable. Truly a great Garda (and family) Wine Story.
Headed back to the east side of the lake, and what better way than by boat! This time no sail, with an excursion through the Sirmione peninsula at the very south end of the lake:
Our boat went right through the peninsula past that castle!
Final stop, after a Covid test to get back to the states (the last day before the requirement was dropped!) and a change of clothes: farewell dinner at Rocca Sveva, about 45 minutes east of the lake, past Verona, in Soave.
Rocca Sveva is one of the crown jewels of the much larger Cantina di Soave, situated in a medieval Borgo, or small village. We were treated to a tour underground (that cellar pic is mine, not a stock photo!), and then climbed quite a ways up to a vineyard hilltop overlooking the Borgo, where sparkling wine and the General Manager were waiting:
I could get used to this..
Then, back down the hill to our farewell dinner. Another wonderful pairing of Italian food and wine:
The only thing missing from this fantastic gathering was dessert, which we couldn’t enjoy because our bus driver was “timed-out” and we had to leave before it could be served!
I left early the next morning to return to the US. My visit was, as they say, short but sweet. Very grateful for the opportunity to experience the beauty of the Lake Garda region and the diversity of its wines. I look forward to returning one day.
Until next time, Salute!