savoir-faire
Ok, apology time again. I know it has been a little longer than usual since my last post, but I have a good reason - I’m homeless! Not in the “I’m living in a cardboard box” sense, but I sold and moved out of my house a week ago.
The throwing away, donating, packing and cleaning leading up to the move has been all-consuming. A challenge to my normal blog cadence for sure. I can’t move into my new place for about a month, so I’m embarking on a road trip to get a change of scenery and just chill (Rosé anyone?).
Before heading out, I have just enough time to share a short post. There is a white wine I want you to try that is definitely one of those “under the radar” names. This is another one of those great alternatives to what you normally drink in the summer.
Today we are going back to France, this time close to the border with Switzerland and Italy, to a region near the Alps called Savoie (“sav-wah”).
Before we begin, one more apology, this to all who have at least a passing knowledge of French. I have taken liberties with the title of this blog: the phrase savoir-faire, meaning the ability to know how to act or what to say in any situation, is pronounced “sav-wahr-fair”. To my English-only ear, they kind of sound the same…
Enough, let’s go to the map! Savoie is an irregular grouping of sub-regions in an eastern corner of France where grapes are planted on mountain hillsides, producing cooler climate wines with good acidity.
Our wine comes from that area in the magnifying glass called Apremont. Wines from Apremont are probably the best known Savoie wines outside of eastern France.
A dark bit of history worth noting: Apremont translates to “bitter mountain”. In the 1200s, a huge chunk of nearby Mont Granier broke loose and slid three miles down the mountainside, wiping out whole villages and killing thousands. After hundreds of years, the limestone became fertile ground for vines. This soil holds the day’s heat and drains well.
A view of Mont Granier
Our Wine: An Apremont from the small Richel family estate in Saint-Baldoph. Approximately $14 at my local Heinens. The importer is Elenteny Imports of NY. I realize not every wine store may carry a white from the Savoie. If yours doesn’t, maybe they can order one for you.
Famille Richel Apremont “La Combelle” 2018
A few things worth highlighting about the label and what’s inside:
As we just noted, Apremont is the specific region where the wine is made. No different than when we say “Chablis” or “Rioja”. It is not a grape varietal. On the back of the bottle, the broader “Savoie” designation is prominent.
So what IS in the bottle? Our wine is made from 100% Jacquére grapes (“jah-kehr”). Almost half of all wines in the Savoie are made from Jacquére.
Jacquére produces light alcohol wines that have a lively freshness to them.
Our wine is produced by another family business, as we like to showcase on The Wine MD. Domaine Richel been making wine locally since the 1950s. Under third generation management, the estate is now over 20 acres and is sustainably farmed. The grapes are handpicked and fermented in stainless steel.
The Richels on their land, with Mont Granier in the distance
Tasting:
In the glass, the Apremont (Jacquére) is pale yellow. On the nose, you definitely get aromas of citrus and white flowers. On the palate, the citrus is still dominant, but supported by flavors of white peach and maybe a little pear. The mouthfeel is framed by really good acidity, which helps deliver a long finish. Another sip or two reveals some of the limestone minerality from where the grapes are grown, adding to the complexity of this lively white.
The Bottom Line:
I think you should try this alpine wine. It is fresh, low alcohol (12%) and makes a great summer aperitif. In terms of food, Apremont is definitely a cheese wine. It is best known as the wine of choice for fondue or raclette. Also a good match with a variety of seafood, both fin and shell. If you are suffering from Chardonnay burn-out (whether you know it or not), a wine like this from Apremont can wake up your palate and put a little zing in your summer sipping.
Until my next post (where ever that might come from)...Cheers!