One Walla isn’t enough
They liked it so much, they named it twice: Walla Walla. That would be Walla Walla, Washington.
Your viticultural MD recently took his research on the road and, accompanied by some intrepid partners in wine, paid a visit to this lesser known corner of the US wine country. Today’s post will be a slight departure from what you are used to, but stay with me for a bonus at the end…
The area was discovered in 1805 by Lewis & Clark as they made their way west. Native Americans told them their name for the small river feeding into what is now the Columbia was “Wallah Wallah”, meaning “many waters”.
So where exactly are these many waters? As usual Wine Folly has a great map…
As you can see, we are all the way down in the southeast corner of Washington state, with the greater Walla Walla wine valley extending across the Oregon border.
Speaking of waters, the reason this whole area became a fertile agricultural region was periodic floods many thousands of years ago from a giant glacial lake in Missoula, Montana. The floods created rich nutrient deposits in the soils.
The first grape vines weren’t planted in Walla Walla Valley until 1974. Up until then, the valley was known for its wheat fields, which still represents about 75% of agricultural land use. Today, the area looks like “an island of wine in a sea of wheat”
picture and quote courtesy of Wine Folly
Today, there are over 100 wineries the Walla Walla Valley, spread across almost 3,000 acres. But what kind of wine comes from those “islands”? Simple. Three letters: R-E-D. Approximately 95% of the varietals planted in the valley are red. Sorry white fans, but don’t go! There is more white wine to this post than you think!
Walla Walla has abundant sun (Doctor and crew experienced this first hand!). The climate is semi-arid, with warm days and cool nights. When we were there, the high to low temperature swung 30 degrees. This adds up to great growing conditions for Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, the two top varietals planted. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Grenache are also grown widely. Expect wines that deliver rich, expressive fruit. Many of the best are blends.
Our visit focused on the kind of vintners you’ve come to see profiled in these posts: smaller, family-owned producers focused on quality over quantity. I will briefly highlight three that stood out for us. Note: the wines they make are not readily available on your “grocer’s shelves”; check out their websites where you can buy from them directly.
Long Shadows Vintners (www.longshadows.com) - Founded by Washington wine pioneer Allen Shoup, Long Shadows has brought together some legendary winemakers from around the world to help craft wines inspired by their respective “home grapes and terroirs”. Honestly, there wasn’t a wine we tasted at Long Shadows that we didn’t love. White fans, if you’re still with me, they make a great Sauvignon Blanc called “Cymbal”. Long Shadows is also known for its striking tasting room, which has a beautiful collection of Chihuly glass. Take a look:
Rasa Vineyards (www.rasavineyards.com) - Call this one an example of the great American dream. Rasa, an Indian term meaning essence, flavor or sentiment, is the culmination of a dream shared by two brothers, Billo and Pinto Narvane. Their Indian parents came to the US and worked hard so the brothers could join them. A successful education produced early careers in technology, but they shared a dream of starting their own winery. In 2007, they produced their first two wines, which received high praise. With a fanatical attention to quality and building their brand, today Billo and Pinto offer a collection of ultra-premium reds and whites. Each has a beautiful label and compelling name (with back-story) such as: Dream Deferred; The Composer; Veritas Sequitur; in Order to form a more perfect Union. We enjoyed tasting a few of these exceptional wines with Pinto in a cozy library just off the production floor. His passion is plainly evident, in both his words and what pours from the bottle.
Billo (left) and Pinto, founders of Rasa
Tranche Cellars (www.tranche.wine) - A French word meaning “slice”, Tranche is another great family producer sitting on the east end of the valley at the edge of the Blue Mountains. Owners Michael and Lauri Corliss guide the production of a fantastic line-up of reds & whites, many of which are beautiful, aromatic expressions of Rhone-style wines (and you know your attending vino physician loves his Old World wines). Their Red, Rosé and White Grenache blends carrying the “Pape” name (as in Chateauneuf du Pape) are particularly good. The Tranche folks were gracious, letting us enjoy our picnic lunch on their grounds after our tasting. Tranche also hosts live concerts on Fridays & Saturdays. Since it was a Monday, we brought our own: our driver is a local musician. He pulled out his guitar and played some of his own songs.
Tranche Cellars picnic with partners in wine (Wine MD in back)
Can’t say enough good things about our time in Walla Walla. A beautiful and different part of the country for sure. There is a lot of good winemaking going on here and across the state of Washington. In addition to the three producers profiled above, you are sure to find something that suits your wallet and palate, from reliable names such as Chateau St. Michelle, through premium names like L’Ecole 41, K Vintners and Abeja, to ultra-premium producers like Leonetti, to name just a few.
I can’t close without a wine. I know I’m running long, so this will be brief. A wine made just west of Walla Walla that I discovered before my trip: Barnard Griffin Rosé of Sangiovese.
So creative and good! Made from Sangiovese, the grape used to make Chianti. This is full of zingy raspberry and strawberry flavors. Weightier than Rosé from Provence, it has plenty of mouthwatering acidity and freshness that keeps you coming back. An excellent and versatile food wine! Low alcohol and low price: $12! Look for it; it is widely distributed.
Finally, a reminder. Winery visits require stamina. Stay hydrated and rested, like this loyal reader & partner in wine:
Until next time, “let’s be careful out there”…
Cheers